CNC Spoilboard Surfacing Router Bits, 1/2 inch Shank 2 inch Cutting Diameter, Slab Flattening Router Bit Planing Bit Wood Milling Cutter Planer Woodworking Tool by NITOMAK (Carbide)

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And it could project the workpiece towards the operator, not away, leading to a kickback-like injury to your torso. When doing slots I go 1/8" at a pass and I have a 3 HP motor digitally controlled speed on my table. Build up with heat resistant Teflon coating which can reduce resin build-up for fast and easy cleaning.

If the item comes direct from a manufacturer, it may be delivered in non-retail packaging, such as a plain or unprinted box or plastic bag.Although that is at least 20 years old and second hand, it leaves a better finish than the brand new powerpkus did. The 103 third parties who use cookies on this service do so for their purposes of displaying and measuring personalized ads, generating audience insights, and developing and improving products. It looks to me like either the slab or the router/sled is not staying level as you move it or at least between passes. Also, like Nathan said, everything needs to be rigid and fixed against movement for your slab and your side rails.

of the time they've probably been used for kitchen worktops, and in the hands of a novice, that means bearing and collet wear (as they try to take too-deep cuts with gummy or dull cutters). Reiterating what has been said and adding a bit to bring all the tips together in one place: Your guide rails have to be very straight, parallel to each other, and well anchored in place. You say 1/8" So that is an 1/8" from the very highest point, so much of the time you are cutting air? You don't know if or when the router bit will grab the board and try to snatch it from you, and with a bit this large the amount of grab could be very high indeed.If you move the router lengthwise down the slab (with the grain), you are really cutting across the grain with the leading edge of the bit. If it isn't a 4" diameter plate cutter getting run on a palm router the wood is tough stuff, gnarly grain, maybe interlocked. I’m getting ready to build a router sled to flatten slabs and other boards, I don't have a jointer big enough. Read more about the condition New: A brand-new, unused, unopened and undamaged item in original retail packaging (where packaging is applicable). Some expert woodworking guys always use the best router bit for planer and designing their canvases aka wood pieces.

I use a 25mm CMT bit, and for the first 2 or 3 runs I cut heavy, maybe around an 1/8th, then as I get closer to final level, I make much shallower passes, like a 1/16th or less. To reduce the risk of serious injury and/or damage to your Festool product, always read, understand and follow all warnings and instructions in your Festool product's Instruction Manual. New: A brand-new, unused, unopened and undamaged item in original retail packaging (where packaging .

Since I'm retired and time isn't an issue, I make lots of lighter passes (less than 1/8") as opposed to hogging it out 1/4" or so at a time. While these difficulties can undoubtedly be resolved it's a lot of futzing about when the stated goal is to make the job easier. The main thing you'll need to be careful about, beyond keeping your fingers away from the bit, is to always be aware of where the wood that you're removing is in relation to the bit.