Games Workshop Citadel Base: Averland Sunset

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Author’s Note: I painted my Vostroyans 12 years ago and some things have changed. More spray paint colors are available but older Citadel Colors like Rotting Flesh paint are no more. You can substitute with Putrid Green from Coat D’Arms or a slightly greener paint in the form of Ogryn Camo. We finally come to my least and most favorite part of doing Rainbow Warriors, their signature helmet striping. I usually dread this and put it off, but it really sets the model apart from the Ultramarines on the next table at the tournament. You need to be able to free hand steady lines, and you usually need to do a lot of corrections, but it’s not too hard honestly. The pink is Liquitex INK! Magenta painted over the tongue. You may find yourself having to re-do the base after the blue gets everywhere; for the tongue don’t worry about applying more drybrushing or anything. I just cover the mistakes with Bonewhite and move on. For a little extra depth you can apply a wash of AP Purple Tone, but it’s not necessary in this case. I use an airbrush to do the basecoating of my army, for both the speed and a particular finish I get that I find very hard to replicate with a standard brush. However, feel free to replace this with layering or soft drybrushing and I think you’ll get a similar outcome.

Finally, highlight the face with Kislev Flesh. Again, if you’re using an airbrush, use the Citadel Air paint. If you’re using regular brushes, use the Layer version. There are two ways you can follow this guide. The first is by using the written instructions you’ll find in this article. The second is by painting along with us over on our YouTube channel. The Imperial Guard feature in a ton of 40k literature, and there are a lot of really great stories about them. So we’re gonna talk about our favorites here. Bugman’s Glow– This paint is a flesh color that is warm and bright, it can be used as an analogous color to Averland Sunset, it will create a balance and harmony with the orange tones.Once you have covered the entire figure, give it a few moments to ensure the paint is fully dry before moving on to the next stage. How to Paint Imperial Fists Step 2 – First Highlight The next step is entirely optional, and is easiest to complete if you’re using an airbrush. (though you can also glaze it) The skin on the sergeant was done with Elf flesh mixed with a little Codex grey, highlight up with some bleached bone. Shaded with flesh wash. Now here is the area you can put a little flair and extra colors. For my specialists, I wanted them to feel like part of my army, so I kept largely the same color palette, just adding dashes of other colors into the mix, and changing the locations to make them look special without making them look like they don’t belong. I want to give this some depth, so I use Celestra Grey to add highlight lines to the raised parts – in this case, the light is coming from directly above the star. Once I’m done with this, I’ll use Nuln Oil to darken the insides of the star, and I’ll add a couple dots of lighter grey to make rivets on the arrowheads.

Image credit: unknown; it’s from 8 years ago and seems to have disappeared from Google image search. That’s the end of my bit, and so I shall pass the mic to TheChirurgeon. Leave a comment below if you have any thoughts or questions, and take care to specify whether you’d prefer me to answer coherently, or in the manner of a mad Scottish prophet halfway into a bottle of whiskey. Since Sir Chunks was getting dings and scrapes applied over the whole model, it would’ve looked pretty weird if the freehand escaped similar harm, so I threw in some extra scrapes over the top, at which point… job done. Next come the brown on the boots and patches. for the brown skinned troopers, I will also do the hands and faces at the same time. The boots need to come before the armor so you can be sloppy around the shin plates. Finally, I added a coat of matte varnish to everything. The weapons are actually magnetized so they can be switched out, but that’s it’s own separate article.

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Finally, I do two sets of edge highlights. First is an all-over layer of Fenrisian Grey, then some specular highlights of Blue Horror. I do a blend here fromm Averland Sunset up to Flash Gitz Yellow, working in 3-4 layers. Once all that’s done I do a thin interior edge highlight line of Dorn Yellow to finish things off. This is pretty much copied over the rest of the model – I’ll highlight the eye lenses with Flash Gitz as well.

White Armor: Like the rank and file Valhallans, I painted these whole models in Steel Legion Drab first. The armor was based with Ulthuan Grey (my secret weapon, holy shit this color is so useful) and down in two coats. I washed the recesses with Agrax Earthshade, then highlighted up with Corax White. An Airbrush. Not necessary, but much much faster for base layers, Any airbrush should do here (we use a Badger Sotar 20/20 for priming, and a Cult of Paint Infinity CR+ for everything else). The decision to list these specific armies is based on the aesthetic of the armies and how Averland Sunset can be used to enhance the look of the troops and machinery of these factions.Starting from the left in the front, the commissar uses the same color palette as my guardsmen. The only additional colors involved are the brass frogging, epaulettes and other details. (VMC Hammered Copper), and the grey greatcoat and fatigues, are a slightly different shade of grey to the armor. Whilst this is called “warm” grey, it;s actually a cool bluish grey, that colder tone will have more colour contrast against the warm yellow armour tones of the armour. A neutral or warm grey would look dull. Take care to apply this only to those areas that would be darkest. Here, all you’re wanting to do is reinforce those shadowy areas – not re-paint whole sections of the figure. How to Paint Imperial Fists Step 5 – Masking Here are five other paints from Citadel Colours that can be combined with Averland Sunset to create a wide range of effects: