SIT UPRIGHT DUTCH STYLE BIKE HANDLEBARS WIDE COMFORT LIFESTYLE 70mm RISE 600mm

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I've happy with my new Raleigh Venture and it's comfortable for the short trips I take, but I can see how the flat bar and palm grips might cause or aggravate hand/wrist pain if I ever start riding longer distances or develop arthritis, carpal tunnel etc.

When you brake on the swept back bars, your hands are not pushed into the bar, as is the case with drop bars and (relatively) straight bars. I am surly free to install any handle bar on my bike that I want, tough I am interested why people don't do it, or rather what are the arguments against a curved handlebar. That said, I wasn't aware that there's such amount of different handlebar diameters (with models differing to fractions of a mm). I used to have a dutch-style bike and I found it much more comfortable than my current one, even though it was way too small for me.

I'd need longer cables too, and maybe a wider seat in case the increased weight on it makes it uncomfortable, but it's still cheaper and I end up with a better bike than in option 1. Frame Shape - Traditional Dutch bikes were built with a wave-shaped frame, which dips down in front of the seatpost so that you can step over the bike easily.

And if you're not comfortable even on a ride as short as 5km, I'd say your bike is a long way from fitting you.

To me (and, I think, most cylists), a touring bike is a drop-handlebar bike similar to a racing bike, but with more relaxed geometry, mounts for racks and fenders, and longer seat-stays so that your heels don't hit your panniers. Popular in the Netherlands, where the bicycle is the main way of getting around the city, these bicycles are perfectly suited for everyday use.

Many Dutch bicycles come in pastel colours or with artful decorations on the frame and chain casing. In the context of road cycling, people often recommend yoga and core strength exercises to help get you more comfortable in a lower riding position – I assume the same would apply in your case. I am not 100% what the original poster of this answer meant with his answer so if the picture doesn't match his idea his/her input would be greatly appreciated, please let me know). No matter what modern adaptations you need to your traditional urban bike, wehave a Dutch-inspired ride for you. My core strength is pretty good (for a 78 year old), but apparently not good enough to be even a pretend-roadie.The shifters could remain in their original location since they are less important than the brakes (if you can't reach your brakes you can crash, if you can't reach your shifters it might be inconvenient). The curved handlebars offer a comfortable grip and allow you to ride in a more upright and relaxed position, the saddle is wide and has thick padding. Never needed to change to different hand positions to be comfortable while riding, these handlebars were comfortable from the get-go. Dutch bicycles are a style of urban commuting bikes that have been used in the Netherlands for decades and have grown in popularity in cities around the world. Traditional Dutch bicycles were mainly single-speed bikes with steel frames – there are few hills in Dutch cities, so there was little need for adaptations for climbing and descending.

Aesthetic - The Dutch style is one of the biggest draws to this style of bicycle, so it’s well worth getting a frame that you’re excited about. Probably just end up with a Nashbar trekking bar (it will play nice with Ergons and grip shifts), but do want to keep my options open. Today, you can find Dutch bikes made from aluminium to reduce their weight, as well as options for gearing. This is harder to step over, but it does allow you a more aggressive riding position, which can be helpful if your urban riding includes hills. Their great popularity in the cities clearly shows that the classic Dutch bike model is far from ready for the scrap-heap yet.OTOH, when you are going fast downhill with curves and bumps and all the other things that actually happen in riding, there is a safety factor to a braking position that resists your momentum as the bike slows. I did consider bars like what you described, but I went with what has been working for me on the other two bikes. I can't ride drops -- my neck don't bend that way no more -- and straight bars pound the hell out of my wrists.