Cooking: Simply and Well, for One or Many

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In many ways, this is rather an old fashioned book, harking back to, and reminiscent of the books of Elizabeth David, Jane Grigson and even Julia Child and he wears those influences on his sleeve. Those spoilt types, like me, who are fortunate enough to eat occasionally at Quo Vadis will turn immediately to pies (“even the planet must have a crust”), knowing that no one on Earth makes a better one, before checking the index (I’ll save you the bother: it’s pages 144-5) for Lee’s smoked eel sandwich, for my money the greatest thing to appear on any menu (or cookbook page) since, yup, sliced bread.

Lee made his bones under Simon Hopkinson and Alastair Little, among the architects of the renaissance in modern British cooking. The book is arranged with a chef’s eye for ingredients, and favourite things to eat throughout the seasons, rather than in courses or meals. But has traveled and cooked widely, citing influences from cooks in many places and generously, happily folding them into his repertoire. Lee and friends shot the photographs for the book at his home, for a true reflection of his cooking – the chocolate tart is a little spilled, the pastry a little blond, the plates and cookware his own.The recipes are arranged by favourite ingredients and occasions and include an introduction emphasising the importance of the quality and provenance of ingredients. A beautiful book full of excellent, accessible recipes many of which have become staples in my household. It’s not classic in my mind it really is something you might see from times gone - good eating never really goes away yes? Lay the spring onions on the hot pan to blister, turning after 3-4 minutes to blister the other side.

Remove the cake from the oven, press down lightly with a frying pan one last time, then let sit for 5 minutes. Served with cream, ice-cream and custard, this is very good in those last days of winter when a treat is often much needed. We don’t share your credit card details with third-party sellers, and we don’t sell your information to others. Place a potato slice in the centre of the skillet and lay the rest of the slices around, overlapping.Jeremy Lee uses an old fashioned soup spoon for measuring which is quite quirky although he says a tablespoon will do just as well. Like his cooking, Lee’s long (very long) awaited first book, the gorgeous Cooking: Simply and Well, For One or Many, with photos by Elena Heatherwick and illustrations by John Broadley, is authoritative, substantial, witty, romantic, beautifully presented and completely moreish. I have often thought about a copper mould for making this lovely dish, as pleasing to look at as it is to eat.