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Posted 20 hours ago

Drayton 123070 LP522 (Mk4) 2 Channel Programmer, White

£109.995£219.99Clearance
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ZTS2023
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And all central heating should come from the same 230 volt supply, otherwise and UPS system to keep it running will not work. However my TRV's with this house (oil fired) have not worked anywhere near as good as with late mothers house (modulating gas) how much down to how pipework installed and how much down to on/off boiler I don't know. It's not a total disaster, as pressing the manual button does work - but that doesn't make sense as clearly it can and does operate the CH.

Another thing is that the hot water was a lot hotter than it usually was but perhaps this was because the water was left on for longer than it usually does. I assume too, that the existing thermostat is actually controlling the heating at the moment. I've seen some installations where there's a thermostat with a cable in, but it wasn't connected to anythng at the other end. I have considered changing my own thermostat, but mothers house had so many problems with wireless link, so not keen on wireless, at the moment using Nest Gen 3, as it sends info through the same two wires as it gets the 12 volt power, so all done with two wires boiler area to main house. But Nest Gen 3 does not connect to TRV heads, it said it did, but alas that's not true, but mainly the problem is house design, late mothers house worked fine without linking TRV's, but this house hall cools too slow. Much depends upon the layout of the various components in your home, if the system has been modified or moved in the past, the personal preferences of the installer, and the materials they had to hand. Lots of variables really.

Allowing different programmes for weekdays and weekends and independent timing of each channel. LP522 provides the ability to control central heating even more efficiently. No longer do systems have to switch on as early at weekends as they do on weekdays. The HW didn't work on the Nest, which was a surprise. So I just took a wire off, and it now works fine. It was great to have hot water in the morning without getting out of bed and pressing a button. However, my CH wasn't working on the scheduler, or the dial. My initial feeling is that a fuse went off in the junction box and that’s caused the programmer to go blank with the two lights lit to denote a replacement fuse is required? Not sure why the heating and and potentially HW stayed on though.

I decided to get a Nest 3rd Gen (Learning Thermostat) after reading the forums on here. I'm in a rental property with no thermostat and I want to save money on heating, and I figured I could probably take this with me if I move (I also like tech). Another possibility is that the room thermostat and /or programmer have been moved at some point and the wires extended from another junction box using wires with a different colour. I know there are plenty of threads about this but I still can’t seem to hit this one on the head. I had an LP522 in place in my new house and am trying to hook up a new Nest to it boiler turned off in case heating was left on as I can’t see if it is on the display (but could hear it working)

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The Drayton LP522 as well as heating control includes another channel for control of hot water heating. So that would still continue to work as it does now. The Nest thermostat is connected to the Heat link terminals T1 & T2 (or it can be powered using a separate plug in power supply) If you are using T1 & T2 for the thermostat, the earth terminal just to their left, also needs connecting to earth.

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