Premier Range Rapid Grab Glass Splashback Adhesive

Product Information

With all of the above in mind, find a nice clear, flat area that you can cut your acrylic in. As stated, make sure that you take your time, measure twice and cut once, don’t let the acrylic overhead when cutting and reduce any and all vibrations as much as possible. Inaccurate cuts can require adjustments and "fine tuning" which can lead to un-true lines and the increased risk of damage When cutting long straight lines with a jigsaw, it is a good idea to clamp a piece of batten along the line that you are cutting so that the base-plate of the jigsaw can follow it, ensuring that the cut is traight. If your walls are particularly uneven, it may be worth re-plastering first. A few dips won’t cause much of a problem, but like tiling, a level base makes a big difference to the finish. 2. Clean and Seal the Walls Try to clean off any splashes as soon as you can. The longer you leave that curry or beans, the harder your job will be.

Hold a long spirit level against the wall and move it around to find any dips. You’ll see these dips when there’s a gap between the spirit level and the wall. Fill in any dips with a pre-mixed plaster skim and leave it to dry before sanding flat. Once applied, wet your finger and run it over each bead wiping off any excess. This will give you a nice, crisp edge and suitable professional look to the whole job.

What to put Behind Cookers and Stoves?

Acrylic by nature is quite soft, and over time it is inevitable that scratchs and scrapes will occur. The good thing about acrylic is that these can be repaired using the same methods outlined under the "Smoothing and Preparing cut Edges" heading above. To seal a wall, mix up some PVA and water in a 50/50 ratio and apply it to the wall. Make sure to leave it to dry before moving on to the next step. 3. Measure the Wall When drilling the holes for the above, make sure that you drill them on the inside of (e.g. the section that you are cutting out) and make sure that they do not spill out into the area you want to use and are as close to the outline of the area you want to cut out as possible! As mentioned previously in this project, unless the manufacturer states that the acrylic you are using is safe to use behind a cooker or stove, it’s probably not worth putting it behind your cooker rings as over time, the heat will damage it and cause it melt or even catch fire! Give it a gentle wipe side to side making sure any greasy marks or stains are lifted clean off. Keep going until its all looking tip top once again.

If you have to join two separate lengths of acrylic, you have two options. The first is to butt the two pieces of acrylic together, and providing you’ve cut two perfect edges, they should meet up against one another to provide a seamless finish. If cut correctly, you shouldn’t even notice the join. If purchasing your own, you will need some with internal threads in the head. This will then allow you to screw in a ″finishing cover″. These types of screw are often called mirror screws. See our project on types of screws for more information.Before you begin, you’ll need to prepare your walls properly. Any previous tiles, wallpaper or wall coverings must be removed, and any large areas with blown plaster must be repaired first.

If you are purchasing from a supplier then its well worth having one of their reps come out and measure up for you. This may cost a little extra but they will be very experienced in this job and if there are any discrepancies in the measurements then it will be up to them to correct where as if you supply your own plans and measurements then any mistakes will be down to you.

Designer Splashbacks

A piece of batten comes in really hand at this stage as you can use it to run over the surface and apply pressure to ensure the entire area is firmly against the wall. Make sure the timber does not dig in or scag the surface and damage it as you do this. We have two options available for this step: glue or screws. As mentioned previously, the method you choose depends on how transparent your acrylic is and whether you wish to change it later. Unless either of the above applies to you, the simplest and easiest method is adhesive. Regardless of which you choose, we’ll take you through each method in this guide. You can opt for metal or glass depending on preference. Both can be stylish and durable but generally speaking metal is the more durable of the two when it comes to high heats, and glass is usually the more stylish addition to your kitchen. Price

The first job is to remove any wallpaper, flakey paint, tiles, adhesive etc…. and then fill any holes or damge using a suitable filler. The condition of the surface of the wall you are fixing to is of paramount importance! You will need to make sure that any and all wallpaper is removed, any flaking paint is scraped off and sanded down and that the surface itself is flat. The toughened glass is tempered at 700 degrees centigrade to ensure it is strengthened to the very highest level – this process also means it will shatter if dropped rather than break into pieces - tough and safe. You then need to apply equally-sized blobs of adhesive of around 20mm in diameter every 100mm apart. Remember not to place any blobs too close to the edge, as this can cause the glue to seep out around the edge. Many people believe toughened glass is made in the same manner as normal glass and then any work that is needed such as cutting holes etc…. is carried out on the toughened glass. This is not true. All glass work is done to ordinary glass (be it laminated, plate, georgian glass etc….) and then the glass is toughened afterwards.If you do have the skills to get this spot on then it will create a very neat and almost seemless join, so if you are feeling confident, go for it, but beware, it can go horibly wrong.