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Gres Cabochard Eau de toilette Spray 100 ml

£9.9£99Clearance
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The first spray is Ginger Wine or Sherry, very loud and very swiftly over. Then you get the talcum powder again, but when I waited for ten minutes I was rewarded with a fabulous Incense/Patchouli Leather fragrance that was worth about five times what I paid. Naturally it’s been reformulated into submission, but I don’t have the vintages to compare it to. When this has jumped out of the bottle it’s not so good, but when it’s gone to sleep on your skin, it’s divine. It reminds me of Leather that has been worn to Church, with a hint of papery dry Tobacco. The Tobacco note is not one of toxic exhaled smoke, but more one of the smell inside a Tobacconists, where the pipe smoke and cigars rub shoulders, giving off an aroma of dark, dried leaves.

Grès's signature fragrance was Cabochard, created by Bernard Chant, and launched in 1958. [7] As of January 2017 [update], Cabochard is still being manufactured and retailed. Other perfumes, launched after the sale of the company, include:Cabochard is often described as a softer take on the animalic darkness of Bandit. Indeed, if Bandit were to be polished to remove its rough edges, to soften its aggressive nature, and to mute its smoky leather, the result would be Cabochard, a leather chypre that is as assertive as it is graceful. A mélange of rich green notes, which is reminiscent of sliced green peppers and succulent leaves, creates an elegant transparent layer, under which an accord dominated by smoky leather is evident from the start. The leather reminiscent of a similar note in Chanel Cuir de Russie is subtle at first, hinting gently as to what might be present underneath the verdant radiance. Its strength grows over time, and as the hesperidic effervescence fades, calm darkness overtakes the composition. I love the spicy green opening. It’s not a pretty start. Dark, mysterious and portentous in the early few minutes, Cabochard opens up as a witches brew. It’s transportive. Every fairy tale seems to have a wood full of dark magic, this is what it would smell like. Mme. Alix Grès launched her design house, Grès, in Paris in 1942, and maintained control of her perfume line until the early 1980s. Parfums Grès has had a complicated ownership history since then. In 2002, it was sold by the Escada Group to Silvio Denz, and as far as I can figure out, his company still owns it.

The name Grès was a partial anagram of her husband's first name and alias. He was Serge Czerefkov, a Russian painter, who left her soon after the house's creation. [5] Grès enjoyed years of critical successes but, after Grès herself sold the business in the 1980s to Yagi Tsucho, a Japanese company, they hired Lloyd Klein as the artistic director for the entire house supervising 46 licencies between Paris and Japan, at the time Klein was offered one of the highest salaries of 150 000FRF per month and an annual fee of 12millionFRF after the death of Madame Grès, Lloyd Klein left the house to continue his collections in New York. By 2012, the last Grès store in Paris was closed. [6] Parfums Grès [ edit ]

Cabochard by Gres. 2019 reformulation.

Pierre Guillaume Bois Blond (now d/ced) – an all the time/any time favorite. Hay, woods, amber, musk That's how I felt when I sprayed on the newest version of Cabochard. Yes, there is already known, and yet... it already wanted to spread the unfortunately so often experienced disappointment, if once again a fragrance classic reformulated to pretend as if he was the ancestor. Well well, the money is to be taken care of, you can use it now and then and consume it in such a way... but it's a shame. To me, it smells very classic. Actually, I have no idea about classics, most of them I don't like, as I associate them with old ladies tippling (well strutting) across the Ku-Damm with your fiffi on your arm. It will probably never become my genre but this one is still quite pleasant. The longevity is good, the sillage perceptible, pleasant and not too intrusive. Towards the end, it falls apart a bit.

I find the fragrance round, gentle and very well cared for. After the many descriptions of the older editions I would have imagined him to be more "adventurous" or "unruly" - but I don't experience that at all: For me he is something for every occasion. Special and rather harsh than sweet, but not pushy; friendly and affectionate.

Germaine Émilie Krebs (1903–1993), known as Alix Barton and later as " Madame Grès", relaunched her design house under the name Grès in Paris in 1942. Prior to this, she worked as "Alix" or "Alix Grès" during the 1930s. [2] [3] Formally trained as a sculptor, she produced haute couture designs for an array of fashionable women, including the Duchess of Windsor, Marlene Dietrich, Greta Garbo, Jacqueline Kennedy, and Dolores del Río. [4] Her signature was cut-outs on gowns that made exposed skin part of the design, yet still had a classical, sophisticated feel. She was renowned for being the last of the haute couture houses to establish a ready-to-wear line, which she called a "prostitution". [5] Overall it’s good Spiced Leather, but I can’t help thinking that I wouldn’t be so positive about this had I smelt the original, rather than this reformulation, which has deeply disappointed critics. (Luca Turin is practically in tears about this one). However, I have to work with the materials I’ve got. For my money, and there wasn’t much of that needed, this is a very good, aromatic Leather with a few shouts of Chypre Green notes and a schooner of Sherry before it finally calms down into its warm leathery base note.

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